The contractor is asking for guidance on fastening wood sill plates for interior walls to concrete slab on grade floors. IBC (and IRC) give guidance on exterior or shear wall foundation anchorbolt locations, but there is nothing on interior non-loadbearing, non-shear walls.
Using Powder Actuated Fasteners in one option.
Drop in Anchors would be another.
I’ve used concrete nails (fluted-shaft hardened steel nails) when I was working on my own house. But that was a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away.
I told the architect that how the contractor fastens wood sills to slab on grade floors is really means and methods. If the interior wall is non-load bearing and non-shear wall it is really up to the contractor on how they would accomplish it.
There are several methods the contractor could use each with advantages and disadvantages:
Case hardened nails
Threaded rod with epoxy adhesive
Expansion anchors
Hardened concrete lag screws
Crimped pins (Rawl)
Powder actuated nails
Threaded rod inserts with machine bolts
Anchor bolts
Once the walls are built and the gypsum boards are installed, the wall is pretty rigid. I believe the pinning of the sill plate to the floor is really just to keep the sill plate stable while the carpenters install the vertical studs.
Simpson Strongtie, Powers, Hilti and other fastener manufacturers give specific direction on how their fasteners should be used.
Most wood walls are built laying down. After the wall is stood up, then the sill is fastened to the floor.
2-3/4" embedment min. at a 4" slab.
Titen HD 1/2" at 48" o.c. https://www.strongtie.com/mechanicalanchors_mechanicalanchoringproducts/thd_anchor/p/titen-hd
These are great, because you can drill, blow away dust and install, in my opinion. The red heads slip, and don’t always work on the first attempt.
Why would a non-load bearing, non-shear interior partition need any special attachment besides what’s needed to keep it in place? Are you attaching heavy loads to it? Sounds like over-thinking to me.
I agree with John